Independent filmmakers front Saint Laurent spring/summer 2023 menswear campaign

January 5, 2023

American filmmakers Abel Ferrara and Jim Jarmusch join motion picture masters Pedro Almodóvar and David Cronenberg, of Spain and Canada respectively, to do spring/summer 2023 the Saint Laurent way. Image credit: Saint Laurent

By Amirah Keaton

To promote the brand’s latest menswear assortment, French fashion house Saint Laurent is taking a page out of Hollywood’s book per usual, this time in an unexpected way.

In a series of “Director's Cut” clips captured by David Sims, a famed talent in his own right, four world-renowned faces fill the frames of the luxury label’s fashion feature. Abel Ferrara and Jim Jarmusch, both American filmmakers, join motion picture masters Pedro Almodóvar and David Cronenberg of Spain and Canada respectively, for spring/summer 2023 the Saint Laurent way.

“This challenges YSL’s ethos that usually features actors and celebrities in front of the camera, not behind it,” said Timothy Derr, partner of the consumer practice at Kearney, Los Angeles.

“Yet, this remains bold, consistent with the brand, unexpectedly showcasing cinematic titans that might resonate with a less fashion-focused consumer.”

“Director’s Cut⁣s”
As Kearney's Mr. Derr puts it, Saint Laurent’s stoic content drops spell out wearable luxury for the portion of the population that places function over capital “F” fashion — the latter, though innovative, risks intimidation, while the brand’s current campaign offering is just as intellectual, rivaling any avant-garde presentation that should make its way to fashion week.

A black-and-white treatment defines creative director Anthony Vaccarello⁣’s presentation, aptly titled “The Director’s Cut⁣s.”

Longtime independent filmmaker Abel Ferrara stars in Saint Laurent's latest

Mr. Ferrara, known best for productions such as 1981’s “Ms .45” and 1992’s “Bad Lieutenant” stars in one excerpt.

As it happens, the independent force has a new Italian–German biographical drama out. “Padre Pio” stars American actor Shia LaBeouf.

Another snippet switches the focus to Mr. Jarmusch, who follows suit in a lapel-laden garment from Saint Laurent – the Double-Breasted Jacket, made of recycled camel's hair and priced at $3,790 – and dark, tonal shades, to match the ambience, of course.

The screenwriter has been in the cinema game since the 1980s, fixing films like Stranger Than Paradise and Down by Law, both released during the decade.

Appearing animated by measure of apparel, and stoic in expression per his peers, Mr. Almodóvar⁣ wears a furry outerwear selection.

In a clip set to a tune of whimsical wonder, the camera pans in on the celebrity, who launched his very own company alongside his brother in 1986.

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In his final moments on screen, Mr. Almodóvar bundles up at the collar and keeps the glare ice-cold.

The clips, just :15 seconds each in duration, deftly embody the individuals' spirits, each in an intricately distinct manner. Upon further analysis, one discovers that assets are arguably shot according to the style of the subject they host.

Mr. Almodóvar⁣’s oversized fur mirrors his melodramatic movie plots, while the roughness of Mr. Ferrara’s neo-noir nature is reflected across his campaign sets, and so forth.

With an air of self-assured satisfaction powering their stances and, ultimately, Saint Laurent’s looks, the brand’s lot of models sell an “it-factor” just as well, if not better, than any modern-day socialite or Gen Z social media star.

“Grand, timeless and sophisticated come to mind,” Kearney’s Mr. Derr said.

“YSL seems to recognize the leaders that have shaped cinema, moving past the trendy glitz and glam that consumers usually see.”

Switching seasons
Saint Laurent’s menswear edition matches the vibe of previous rounds of visuals at face value.

See last September's campaign, which featured names like music artist and actor Dominic Fike, actress Zoë Kravtiz, actor Lakeith Stanfield and model Hailey Beiber, who embodied and amplified fall/winter garb amid cool campaign images (see story). The latter talent has lifted additional team activations in recent months (see story).

Saint Laurent's celebrity cast includes model Hailey Beiber. Image credit: Saint Laurent

This time around, though, the team pushes ahead in tone. Campaign content is intellectual, yet approachable, and could work to attract a different type of shopper.

Those well-versed in the art of film, and in need of a few well-made wardrobe upgrades for spring, can head online and in-store to browse the collection, now live on Saint Laurent’s site.

Upon further analysis, one discovers that assets are arguably shot according to the style of the subject it hosts. Image credit: Saint Laurent

“What I love about the collection is that it successfully brings out the personality and cinematic styling of each filmmaker,” Mr. Derr said.

“After the past few years, men are more excited to have the opportunity to dress up and show their personality both professionally and personally.”

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