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Apparel and accessories

Dior odes Mexico City’s cultural heritage

May 24, 2023

Enlisting the help of artisans from the state of Puebla, the maison is centering regional voices and art forms through a Cruise 2024 activation. Image credit: Dior Enlisting the help of artisans from the state of Puebla, the maison is centering regional voices and art forms through a Cruise 2024 activation. Image credit: Dior

 

By Emily Iris Degn

French fashion house Dior is celebrating a historic locale through fashion.

The brand enlisted artisans from the state of Puebla to collaborate with creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri on the Cruise 2024 collection. Tapping into their heritage know-how, the lineup encapsulates some of the cultural crafting techniques and looks of Mexico City, a favorite spot of inspiration for Dior.

Weaving history
Among the workshops that were chosen to participate in creating the Cruise 2024 collection is the Yolcentle Taller.

Hilán Cruz, a weaver and cofounder of the workshop, is highlighted in Dior’s newest activation.

The Puebla weaving techniques are infused throughout the Dior Cruise 2024 collection

Those in the workshop handcrafted embroidered pieces – inspired by the styles of their grandparents and great-grandparents – to be included in the collection, applying their handed-down techniques to them.

Tulle dresses were updated with woven creations and square-sleeved tops were updated with embroidery. The result was a mix of the contemporary and the traditional both in style and in philosophy.

Embroidery, bright colors and other traditional aspects of the practice were applied to Dior's luxury clothing items. Image credit: Dior Embroidery, bright colors and other traditional aspects of the practice were applied to Dior's luxury clothing items. Image credit: Dior

Mr. Cruz discusses in the video released by Dior his love of his art form, despite it being traditionally viewed as women’s work. The female members of his family were hesitant to teach him when he showed interest, pointing to it not only being viewed as an improper hobby for his gender but an unsuitable profession.

Upon seeing the technical and creative skills needed to create traditional weavings of the region, Mr. Cruz decided to create a job source for practitioners of the art.

Now, he creates alongside a slew of passionate craftspeople in his workshop, located in the Huauchinango mountains.

The weavers apply heritage skills to create styles beloved by their grandparents and great-grandparents, enriching Dior's collection with a personalized touch. Image credit: Dior Weavers apply heritage skills to create styles beloved by their grandparents and great-grandparents, enriching Dior's collection with a personalized touch. Image credit: Dior

By involving Mr. Cruz and providing a platform for his story, Dior is once again showing support for nontraditional gender presentation (see story) and norms.

Additionally, this cultural art form provides timeless styles that have already stood the test of time.

Sidestepping missteps
While Dior took inspiration from Mexico for the Cruise 2019 collection, this time around the brand seems to be mindful of past mistakes.

Last time, the maison was under scrutiny for centering white voices and those not of Mexican descent, leading to many saying that the collection was an instance of cultural appropriation (see story).

Not only were Mexican artists and craftspeople the focus of this new collection and campaign, but a specific figure from the country acted as an anchor.

 

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A post shared by Dior Official (@dior)

Surrealist painter Frida Kahlo is heavily referenced throughout the collection and its recent presentation in Mexico City. Ms. Kahlo is one of the few female surrealist painters to receive widespread recognition, with many ignored or not lauded nearly as much as their male counterparts (see story).

She is not only an extremely recognizable artist – whose work often breaks records at luxury auctions to this day (see story) – but is also known for her heritage and place in Mexico’s cultural history.

Grounding the collection in her life story and artwork supplemented the efforts made to keep the country at its heart, as Ms. Kahlo also represents values that Gen Z and millennials are known for appreciating, such as open-minded approaches to sexuality and, just like Mr. Cruz, questioning systemic gender structures.

 

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A post shared by Dior Official (@dior)

Not only did her involvement aid in avoiding appropriation or the look of it this time around, but it brought an extremely popular and buzz-worthy name to the table that has proven to still bring in revenue for luxury (see story) even after Frida Kahlo herself has passed on.

 
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