Food and beverage
April 11, 2023
The French guide is still popular in China despite criticism of its Western-centric perspective and competition from Meituan-Dianping’s "Black Pearl." Image credit: Cai Yi Xuan, Four Seasons Beijing
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","iv":"c3da289f059da2b36e9c241f312f945c","s":"e72b2fd64f8b02ba"}
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